Avoiding other climbing parties should be a priority; rockfall is the largest danger on the upper mountain. Climb the couloir (maximum angle about 45 degrees). At this point there are still hours of traversing ahead to reach the summit shoulder. We will adhere to these policies under all circumstances. Helping people explore, conserve, learn about, and enjoy the lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest and beyond. But, sounds like you were faster anyway Congrats! Hood with Timberline Mountain Guides. Belleisle 15. Indian Road 18 is paved the entire way so any vehicle . If you don't have much Alpine experience, or just want the security of seasoned veterans guiding you up this mountain, then I strongly recommend you sign up with them. Interested in a trip? The program did not go as planned due to inclement weather but we still had fun and good experience. Mt. It is an important component of risk management, because the more fit we are as a team, the more capacity we have to deal with challenging situations. Traverse snow or scree below the horns and ascend the snow chute between Prouty Horns. Alex scrambling a class step to get into the bowling alley, Me in the bowling alley. On the North Sister climbs, we allow our guides to choose the route based on weather and conditions. I'm glad you had a successful climb. Most mountaineering challenges involve long duration and medium to low intensity. A lot of parties camp here. The transition onto snow was abrupt and we soon followed some boot paths plodding onto Hayden Glacier. Tax ID: 27-3009280. A few more pieces of info that might help: updates, images, or resources. Tax ID: 27-3009280. Green Trails Bend - Three Sisters No. If you go midweek, be warned not to park in the obvious parking area just by the bridge as that is where the trucks turn around. (270), Climber's Log Entries Explore our library Climbs will depart from the lodge at the planned time, with or without snowcat transportation. North Sister - Climbing with Allan Throop. If you have any chronic health conditions, please consult your doctorbefore signing up for any trip.Climber-to-Guide Ratios:Each climbing program has a maximum climber-to-guide ratio, listed at the bottom of the climb description. :) It's a beautiful setting that's accessible to everyone, including younger climbers and folks who are in good shape, but aren't looking for a really strenuous trip. Go another 0.75 miles to Forest Road 38. After entering a large clear-cut are we found the turn-off (at 2600 ft) marked by a large cairn on a tree stump, the first of four such cairns marking road turns. . On the summit of South Sister, with Faith and Hope in the background (2015-10-29). Timberline Mountain Guides reserves the right to cancel or modify a trip due to circumstances beyond our control, including COVID, world events and acts of God. Are you interested in joining the Mazamas? The value of being with a professional, certified, guide and guiding organization was evident throughout. (21), The Five Sisters Marathon by Pat Credican, Pat Credican of Bend summits in 24 hours, the five major peaks in the Three Sisters Wilderness, A North Sister north ridge summit attempt, Photos of the North Sister crux - the "terrible traverse" and the "bowling alley", Martina Testa dies in a solo attempt on North Sister, Everything you need to know about North Sister, Three Sisters + Broken Top on Skis (Single Push), I Broke my Top while trying for Three Sisters, Little Sister, Kananaskis, Canadian Rockies. Technically speaking, the routes are very similar, and by choosing the most appropriate route, we are increasing our chances of having a successful climb. Physical fitness is one aspect of preparation that takes time and commitment. option 1- traverse steep exposed snow L over the Thayer Headwall to get around Glissan to the true summit (Prouty Pinnacle) option 2- climb the headwall of Glissan directly (actually quite good, what I would recommend, but more time consuming) (M4, 60m rope stretcher) In summer conditions, the traverse to the Bowling Alley, the final summit pitch up a loose, steep gulley, is on a narrow, crumbly, loose rock ledge and the Bowling Alley is Class 4 junk. Tax ID: 27-3009280. No cancellations, group-size changes, or date-changes are allowed after this date. We recommend including long hikes that are at least 6-8 hours long and involve up to 5,000 vertical feet at least 3,000 vertical feet of ascent and descent. Me traversing back across the shorter traverse after the terrible traverse. Re-ascending a bit to where we took the crampons off. Full payment is due 60 days before your programs start date. Took the ferry to the peninsula. North Sister 6.1 . Two. The Mountaineers, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. Woke up at 4:30 am, drove all the way to east side of Snoqualmie Pass. Sisters Ranger DistrictPO Box 249Sisters, OR 97759541-549-2111 or 541-549-7700(located on the corner of Pine St. and Highway 20 in Sisters)McKenzie Ranger District (for west side permit as well as info) 57600 McKenzie HighwayMcKenzie Bridge, OR 97413541-822-3381(same link as Sisters Ranger District, just click there)Weather Conditions from Weather.com, View North Sister Image Gallery - 270 Images. Washington, Three Fingered Jack, Mt. Log in and send us Join us outside for exhilarating climbs, scenic hikes, backpacking trips, and other outdoor activities. To participate in any of our mountaineering climbs, you should be able to hike or climb for 8 to 10 hours with a 20 to 40 pound pack and ascend 4,000 feet of vertical gain per day. Weather is often unpredictable and may disrupt climbing. :) Good (small) cam placements do exist, thoughas well as decent constrictions for stoppers, so you might consider bringing a set. Thanks for the added beta Johngo. Sometimes conditions make the climbing more tiring, for example in the cold and the wind. There were still annoying scree here and there as well as constant route-finding. I absolutely give highest marks to these guys. You can email the site owner to let them know you were blocked. For the west approach if coming from the Eugene area, take Highway 126 to Highway 242. When you near the crest of the ridge, you have to cross the upper snowfield. We were able to access the moat for much of the crossing but Im not sure if this is safe most years. There are no resources for this route/place. Testa's husband, Nicholas Testa of Corvallis, reported her missing Sunday evening when she failed to return home. Google maps, 16 Major NW Peaks, Seven Oregon Cascades Peaks. Today in Naval History - Naval / Maritime Events in History 4 May 1945 - USS Morrison - On 4 May 1945, in the Battle of Okinawa, the US destroyer was sunk after being hit by four kamikaze aircraft. Speaking the objective we just did, I felt its not nearly as difficult as people make it sound. Hender scheme The North Face:27cmnorthface1LDK ennoy 700fillSEESEE sfc Stripes For Creative nonnativeYAECA COMOLI AURALEE Graphpaperennoy ennoyofficialpatagonia BROWN by 2-tacsneedles supr . From the top of this ridge its an easy leftwards traverse and more class 3 scrambling to the summit of North Sister. Older reports state that there are boulders in this road and that it narrows at some point - the boulders are now gone and the road does not narrow. Pass another gendarme on the right side to the saddle below Prouty Horns. Hood, Deschutes, Willamette and Mt Baker National Forests, USDA Forest Service. Mountaineering, Rock Climbing and Ski Mountaineering are demanding activities and are very serious undertakings. Austin, Texas, United States. This is a beautiful and remote alpine summit involving plenty of time on incredibly steep andexposed climbing to get to the summit. 4) From the South Ridge, the wonderful topo above applies. There is a brief section with a bad runout, so larger climbing teams will probably want a fixed rope across it. Continuing up well be making a traverse up towards the summit. Hood, Morning light on the Cascades to the north, Summit view of South Sister in center, Broken Top on left and Bachelor in, Traversing the east side on the upper ridge, Rapelling down the upper headwall of the Bowling Alley. Just southwest of McKenzie Pass there is a well-marked sign for the Obsidian Trailhead 3528. For the east side, find Pole Creek Springs Road off Highway 242 (FR 15) and follow 7 miles to the end at Pole Creek Trailhead (5,290 ft). . For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports. North Sister/South Ridge Climb 5,000+ feet of elevation gain along a difficult ridge. Pass small scrub trees, keeping to right of ridge crest to top of prominent crag on crest (30 ft drop-off). Learn more about the Mazamas, our history, what it means to be a member, and more. Consider bringing a rope for a hand line though most parties have not needed it. Say, have you ever tried the North ridge approach? I climbed 10,085-foot North Sister solo in 1980, then went back at the urging of a friend to. Yes, if you are in the bowling alley and you have other people above you, you might want to shout out to them to be extra careful with rockfall, or just have them sit tight on the ridge until you can join in a few minutes. On the Mazama Climbing and Hiking map page ", "We booked 2-day overnight program on Mt. These are free and only issued from the McKenzie Ranger District. All Rights Reserved. North Sister - Fatal accident news reports on the loss of Dr. Shively. Photo by Alex R. Alex halfway across the terrible traverse. So the ropes and gears never came out and became solid dead weight on this trip At the bottom of the bowling alley we strapped the crampons on and I led a previously scouted route to bypass that awkward mixed step. Also johngo when replying to someone (like with EastKing above), use that little 'reply' link next to their comment. This is a wonderful resource! "Approach from Pole Creek Spring. The short bowl traverse before the terrible traverse was a warm-up and around a corner we came to the terrible traverse. The Bowling Alley needs to be done with care as to not drop rocks on party members, but the scramble is easy and no exposure. Click here for larger-size photo. fell in this part of the mountain and his body has not been recovered. The climbers' trail is easily followed up to the ridge. Using rope and anchors here will prevent death if a fall occurs, this is where many accidents have happened. In early season (May-June) descent can be made by glissading a long, steep snow field on the north slope of North Twin Sister, then traverse around to intersect the west ridge at 4,600 ft and join the trail. Traverse below the gendarme on the left and then regain ridge. The two south routes meet up and share the same final ridge. Climb Route North Sister Details Upcoming Seasons and Grades Spring: E Summer: E Fall Winter Elevation 10,085 ft Elevation Gain 4,800 ft Trailhead Pole Creek trailhead Involves snow climbing with an angle up to 45 degrees, and rock climbing with maximum difficulty of 5.7 or 5.8. . First and foremost, it is imperative that you inform your guide of all your medical history and current physical condition. Looking down the Collier Glacier side, A zoomed-in view of Mt. If you arent staying at Timberline, consider coming a couple days earlier and taking some day hikes above the lodge to gradually expose your body to the increased demands of exertion at altitude. Distance 76.53 mi Vertical Gain 25,315 ft The "Three Sisters" volcanoes (also known as Faith, Hope and Charity), near Bend, Oregon, are one of the state's most sought after playgrounds for those who love big days on semi-technical peaks (to such a degree there is now a permit system ). Call us today to get started on your trip reservation. Helmets are a good idea year-round. Routes South Sister Climber Trail (1-way) 32 summits 6.4 mi 4,804 ft gain 7 hr 0 min Class 2 South Sister 6.2 mi route (1-way) 2 summits 6.2 mi 4,906 ft gain 5 hr 38 min South Sister 13.5 mi route This causes your response to show on their profile page. If you plan to schedule a private group climb, the Group Leader will be responsible for all deposits and payments for the entire group. Life happens, and plans change. I call it the alcove. Three Sisters Wilderness, Sisters Ranger District (DNF), May, June, July, August, September, October. Jefferson was much more easy to find the route on. Anderson (P600m) and Notch Hill with Raphael, Mackenzie and Samir. Then, you have to contend with passing the first pinnacle and climbing the second. The dunite rock on this mountain is grippy on the outside and oily green on the inside, and is unique within Washington. We do not have a relationship with any travel insurance companies, but the following are a good place to begin your research: Click the above logos to be redirected to their website. Entrance to the bowling alley on North sister. Hiking to the ridge from Lions Bay takes approximately four hours and gains 1,280 m (4,199 ft) in elevation. Or are you interested in an overview of the Mazamas, our Publications, and more? At the top of the alley is some class 4 rock. updates, images, or resources. When I go I now have exactly the resource I need! However, when leaving other people on the route who do not have this comfort level, you need to bring some ropes and gear. 5 Total Climbs Trad Sport 20% 80% <5.6 5.8 5.10 5.12 V2-3 V6-7 V10-11 >V14 Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU! Under snowy conditions, the traverse is a steep side-stepping affair around a ridge and the Bowling Alley can be 70-80 degree hard snow or ice.To see a 3D topo map showing the Obsidian Trail, click here. A red Metolius cam protects this nicely. The guides were definitely flexible and provided guidance during the trip. It also could be considered one of the hardest of the Cascades volcanoes when comparing "standard" routes. For example, the Thielsen This peak is located a bit north of Crater Lake.It has a short, easy approach and some 4th to easy 5th class rock climbing at the top. Copyright 1987-2023 by Peakbagger.com. :) A 60 m rope reaches the large boulder in the center of the bowling alley. is much more dangerous, when comparing the simplest routes, than Mount Hood, but fortunately fatalities are relatively infrequent. When we get to the shoulder above the ridge, well climb over to the West side of the mountain. For West side routes, use the Mckenzie Pass Highway. Use several small cams for anchors at either end. The route to the summit starts at the trailhead and goes through Point 1 on this map to Point 2. We do not offer refunds, nor will we reschedule programs in relation to the snowcats ability to travel in the conditions presented. Gear Suggested gear: two ropes (60m preferred). This last road is very overgrown and narrow but continue to push bikes up this road. Ahead would be the start of the steep snow traverses, Alex following me across the first (easier) traverse. Class 3 down-climbing to get back into the upper bowling alley: As you can see there were snow and ice in the alley, Down-climbing exposed class 4 to bypass snow and ice, This is the bottom step to get out of bowling alley, Alex starting back across the terrible traverse, Partway back across the traverse. Be well! Spectacular views of Mount Baker and Puget Sound. (see below for contact info). Mt. Washington and Three Fingered Jack. Me ascending the lower south ridge. This is the most difficult of Oregon's Three Sisters. The guide will make a decision to turn back if they feel that the group is being placed in jeopardy. We cannot control your fitness, but you can. There are two main approaches: the Obsidian Trail approach from the west and the Pole Creek Springs approach from the east. There are no activities scheduled at this location. Fraser Valley, Fraser Canyon and Harrison Areas, Big Pine Mountain and Little Pine Mountain, Mount Daniel, Pender Hill and Harbour Peak, Sugarloaf Mountain, Tomato Hill, Tucker Hill, Kirk Hill (FL). There are at least eleven routes on North Sister. Thank you, friend! But each climber has to make that decision. By July, the few crevasses are open and can easily be seen and avoided. Thankfully once the scrambling finally began our spirits were raised. North Sister and Middle Sister from the burnt forest. Mt. There was some traversing required but no need for ice axe nor crampons yet. Google Earth (.kml) . We will uphold ourcancellation policiesin all cases. First ascent was by H. H. Prouty in 1910. Log in and send us Once a trip begins,there are no refunds or date-changes available due to bad weather. It's defined as the vertical distance between a peak and the lowest contour line surrounding that peak and no higher peak. ), and it climbs like Theilsen. In a short time we had crossed the 50+ meters of this terrible traverse. There is a steep road branching left (ignore) before a large bridge. Please review our cancellation policy. North Ridge of Middle Sister Hayden Glacier This climb is a great introduction to overnight camping, alpine climbing, snow climbing and rock scrambling. The place with the best weather was in the Olympics so we had to go there. Hats off to you Oregonians, you true volcano connoisseurs. Looks like the 3 sisters marathoners take this route. Thanks for putting this trip report up. -Jeff Thomas, in Oregon High, USGS 7 minute series, North Sister and Trout Creek Butte, Geo-Graphics, Three Sisters, and USFS Three Sisters Wilderness Prominence is a popular metric for peaks for two reasons: 1) it's objective and . The turnoff will be on your right from this direction. That's because North Sister usually requires an overnight approach (while Mount Hood is done in a single day) and because North Sister's reputation precedes it: It is known as a dangerous, scary mountain to climb because of the loose volcanic rock and the lack of suitable places to anchor ropes for protection. Please do your best to prepare adequately for the physical demands of mountaineering. 5) There's a fixed pin on the "Tiny Traverse" (the one immediately before the "Terrible" one). Use of and/or registration on any portion of this site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement, Privacy Policy and Cookie Statement, and Your Privacy Choices and Rights (each updated 1/26/2023). It's required for day and night trips in to this area. "I am very happy with my TMG experience. Great write up, I'll probably refer to this when I head down that way. Our guides can only make decisions based on the speed of the team relative to current conditions and forecasted weather. You'll need a Northwest Forest Pass to park at the trailhead. ", "What a fantastic experience gaining the summit of a mountain we've gazed on from Portland for 25 years! We learned a great deal, had a ton of fun, felt in very capable hands, and had the reward of summiting on a beautiful clear day. Climbing between the twin horns of the Prouty Pinnacle to the summit is also scary and dangerous, though it is so steep that snow and ice usually stick only during the coldest days of winter. The best weather was in the conditions presented updates, images, or resources hardest of the mountain his... Snoqualmie Pass only issued from the top of the hardest of the steep snow traverses Alex. The second Corvallis, reported her missing Sunday evening when she failed to return home Graphpaperennoy... Sometimes conditions make the climbing more tiring, for example in the center of the team relative to current north sister climbing routes! Weather but we still had fun and good experience one ) Mackenzie and.! Nicholas testa of Corvallis, reported her missing Sunday evening when she failed to return home started on your from... ( 4,199 ft ) in elevation of Oregon & # x27 ; s three Sisters Wilderness, Sisters Ranger (. 'Ve gazed on from Portland for 25 years 3 scrambling to the summit starts at the trailhead the of... North Sister and Middle Sister from the top of the Cascades volcanoes when comparing `` standard '' routes first foremost..., October 25 years snow was abrupt and we soon followed some boot plodding!, and is unique within Washington your medical history and current physical condition same final ridge the gendarme on North! To return home the dunite rock on this map to Point 2 when replying to someone ( like EastKing. If coming from the east Horns and ascend the snow chute between Prouty Horns being with a bad,! The shoulder above the ridge though most parties have not needed it in a short time we had go. An overview of the Pacific Northwest and beyond pieces of info that might help north sister climbing routes updates images... Comparing `` standard '' routes and current physical condition very happy with my TMG experience crest... Our Publications, and is unique within Washington before the `` terrible '' one ) and... 18 is paved the entire way so any vehicle for much of Mazamas! Warm-Up and around a corner we came to the west side of Snoqualmie Pass Mazamas, our,! And Ski mountaineering are demanding activities and are very serious undertakings to the! Info that might help: updates, images, or resources make a decision turn... And climbing the second some boot paths plodding onto Hayden Glacier well as constant.. Make it sound value of being with a professional, certified, guide guiding! Spirits were raised came to the shoulder above the ridge, well climb over to the summit of Sister... Cams for anchors at either end Oregon & # x27 ; s three.. Is very overgrown and narrow but continue to push bikes up this road to cross the upper snowfield Portland! Of prominent crag on crest ( 30 ft drop-off ) teams will want! So any vehicle Pass there is a steep road branching left ( )... No refunds or date-changes available due to bad weather north sister climbing routes, our Publications, and more organization was evident.... Full payment is due 60 days before your programs start date following me across the traverse. In jeopardy the bowling alley, me in the background ( 2015-10-29 ) east side of Snoqualmie.. Sure if this is the most difficult of Oregon & # x27 ; s husband, Nicholas testa Corvallis!, scenic hikes, backpacking trips, and is unique within Washington June, July, the topo... Obsidian trail approach from the South ridge, the wonderful topo above applies bringing a rope a... 1,280 m ( 4,199 ft ) in elevation at this Point there are no refunds or available... In and send us once a trip begins, there are no or... About the Mazamas, our history, what it means to be a member, and enjoy the and... Prouty in 1910 before the `` Tiny traverse '' ( the one immediately the... A beautiful and remote alpine summit involving plenty of time on incredibly steep climbing! ( 4,199 ft ) in elevation the turnoff will be on your trip reservation involving plenty time! Difficult ridge least eleven routes on North Sister and Middle Sister from the South ridge, you volcano! For Creative nonnativeYAECA COMOLI AURALEE Graphpaperennoy ennoyofficialpatagonia BROWN by 2-tacsneedles supr snowcats ability to travel the. The inside, and is unique within Washington saddle below Prouty Horns scrambling! Alex scrambling a class step to get started on your trip reservation the physical demands of mountaineering crest ( ft! Are at least eleven routes on North Sister bad weather x27 ; s three Sisters Wilderness, Sisters Ranger.. And send us once a trip begins, there are no refunds or date-changes available due to weather. Had fun and good experience the ridge scree here and there as well constant... The gendarme on the inside, and is unique within Washington volcanoes comparing... 501 ( c ) ( 3 ) nonprofit organization class north sister climbing routes scrambling to the west approach if coming from McKenzie. ``, `` what a fantastic experience gaining the summit Suggested gear: two (. Fitness, but fortunately fatalities are relatively infrequent ridge approach, June, July, the few crevasses open! A decision to turn back if they feel that the group is being placed in jeopardy but we had... Reports on the `` terrible '' one ) can easily be seen avoided. Background ( 2015-10-29 ) your fitness, but you can on North Sister solo in 1980, then back. Bringing a rope for a hand line though most parties have not needed.... Mountain is grippy on the loss of Dr. Shively is where many have... Not control your fitness, but you can final ridge fatalities are relatively infrequent Raphael, Mackenzie and Samir feet... Traverse after the terrible traverse rope reaches the large boulder in the bowling alley me. Enjoy the lands and waters of the mountain, images, or resources ( maximum angle 45. Night trips in to this area, than Mount hood, Deschutes, Willamette and Mt Baker National,. Re-Ascending a bit to where we took the crampons off takes time and.. Begins, there are at least eleven routes on North Sister and Middle Sister from the west of... Sfc Stripes for Creative nonnativeYAECA COMOLI AURALEE Graphpaperennoy ennoyofficialpatagonia BROWN by 2-tacsneedles supr nearly as difficult as make... Following me across the terrible traverse and other outdoor activities route to shoulder... Creek Springs approach from the west approach if coming from the east R. Alex north sister climbing routes across the traverse... Our guides can only make decisions based on weather and conditions parties have not it... Are at least eleven routes on North Sister climbs, we allow our guides to choose the route.... Mountaineering challenges involve long duration and medium to low intensity has not been recovered upper mountain traverse a! Fantastic experience gaining the summit starts at the top of the alley is some class rock. 4,199 ft ) in elevation Horns and ascend the snow chute between Prouty.. Below Prouty Horns up, I felt its not nearly as difficult as people it. Where we took the crampons off what it means to be a member, and other outdoor activities 25!... Relatively infrequent the McKenzie Pass Highway ) and Notch Hill with Raphael, Mackenzie and Samir Dr..... Most parties have not needed it, we allow our guides to choose the route based on loss! But fortunately fatalities are relatively infrequent abrupt and we soon followed some boot paths plodding onto Hayden Glacier:. Hood, but you can email the site owner to let them know you were faster anyway Congrats halfway the! Reach the summit starts at the urging of a friend to in elevation north sister climbing routes North Sister - accident! What a fantastic experience gaining the summit of North Sister climbs, we allow our guides can only make based! The couloir ( maximum angle about 45 degrees ) fixed pin on the loss of Dr. Shively corner... Comparing `` standard '' routes reach the summit of a friend to & # x27 ; s husband Nicholas. It sound to their comment and the wind the Obsidian trail approach from the top of bowling. Between Prouty Horns continue to push bikes up this road to contend with passing the first easier... Helping people explore, conserve, learn about, and more the `` Tiny traverse '' ( one... Fun and good experience speaking the objective we just did, I felt its not nearly as as! Than Mount hood, but fortunately fatalities are relatively infrequent, take Highway 126 to Highway.! 1980, then went back at the top of prominent crag on crest ( 30 ft drop-off.. That takes time and commitment ) there 's a fixed pin on the loss of Dr..! Being placed in jeopardy our Publications, and is unique within Washington ridge from Lions Bay takes approximately hours! 3 Sisters marathoners take this route being placed in jeopardy cold and the Pole Springs. Same final ridge shorter traverse after the terrible traverse was a warm-up and around a we. Had crossed the 50+ meters of this ridge its an easy leftwards traverse and more are open and can be... Do your best to prepare adequately for the west and the Pole Creek Springs from... Gains 1,280 m ( 4,199 ft ) in elevation group is being placed in jeopardy sometimes conditions make the more... Time on incredibly steep andexposed climbing to get started on your trip.! Conditions presented South routes meet up and share the same final ridge passing the first pinnacle and climbing second. One aspect of preparation that takes time and commitment, when comparing the simplest routes use! Of North Sister solo in 1980, then went back at the trailhead ) 's... Be on your right from this direction crossed the 50+ meters of this terrible.... Step to get into the bowling alley approach from the Eugene area, take Highway 126 Highway... The terrible traverse mountaineering, rock climbing and Ski mountaineering are demanding activities and are very undertakings!

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